| We landed at noon at Düsseldorf,
         and grabbed a quick train to Cologne... where we promptly
         got a hotel room. Once again, the Cologne Tourist Office
         came through with a nice $60 hotel room, just a block off of
         Hohestrasse. They seem to always give us $60 rooms. Then
         again, we've never been there during a trade fair or
         Carnival... Anyway, we grabbed a sub sandwich at Tommy's,
         cruised this woofy bear named Arno, discovered he was the
         proprietor of the bear bar in town, Zipp's, promised to drop
         on by around 8:00pm... and we promptly sacked out at 6:00.
         The nine hour flight was tiring. 
         
          So the next day, we got up and dashed
         off to the train station to catch an Intercity Express (ICE)
         train to Berlin. They leave, conveniently, every two hours
         from Cologne, and it's a six hour or so trip. The trip was
         uneventful. I kept on looking for the former border between
         East and West. Didn't see much, except for a big abandoned
         train switching yard with lots of tall light poles now
         rusting. 
       | 
   
      | One of the guidebooks described Berlin
         as ugly, but I guess they haven't seen Trona, California,
         certainly the most unappealing place I've been to. Berlin
         was leafy, with lots of shops and restaurants--and unlike
         the rest of Germany, you can actually find a place to eat
         after 9pm! Some of the restaurants even stayed open until
         midnight. It was great... but then, that was the western
         part of the city, which struck me as dependable
         excitement.
         
          
       | 
            
               |  
 |  
               | Above, a typical
                  central Berlin street. Here we see the post-Cristo
                  Reichstag, now wrapped in silver
                  scaffolding.
                |  |